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Tuesday, August 5, 2008

Run Run Run... As Fast As You Can....

You can't catch me I'm the Stinky-Cheese-Man!!

So I've had several emails and requests for this pattern. So I've decided to post it.


Mr. Cheese
by Bethany Mills
Difficulty [Hard]

Being a fan of children’s stories, I have always loved The Stinky-Cheese-Man. The doll is a pretty faithful representation of the Stinky-Cheese-Man. Even though it is not the easiest pattern to knit, with some bit of courage, anyone with intermediate knitting experience should be able to bring The Stinky-Cheese-Man to life.

Not being a huge fan of finishing, I decided to knit the entire body in the round. The legs and arms are worked first then joined together to make a seamless body.

SIZE
One size

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Height: about 13 inches

MATERIALS
Caron [%100 Acrilic; 157 yd/143 m per 3oz. /85g skein]
[MC] color: Mango; 2 skeins
[CC] color: Sage; 1 skein
[CC] color: Rubine Red; 1 skein
[CC] color: Off white; 1 skein

1 set US #4/3.5 mm double-point needles
1 set US #6/4mm straight needles
Tapestry needle
Stitch markers
Safety pins
Scrap yarn
Tip holders

notions required
3” 8 x 8 polly foam.


GAUGE
22 sts/30 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch (on US #4)
20 sts/ 28 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch (on US #6)

PATTERN NOTES
The olives are worked in crochet.

This pattern can be a bit tricky, So I really suggest reading all the way through it first.

PATTERN

Top and Bottom of head (make 2)
With MC, CO 18 sts on oto US #6 straight needles
Row 1: Knit.
Row 2: purl.
Row 3: K17, W&T.
Row 4 and all even numbered rows: Purl back.
Row 5: K16, W&T.
Row 7: K15, W&T.
Row 9: K14, W&T.
Row 11: K13, W&T.
Row 13: K12, W&T.
Row 15: K11, W&T.
Row 17: K10, W&T.
Row 19: K9, W&T.
Row 21: K8, W&T.
Row 23: K7, W&T.
Row 25: Knit all stitches (Knitting stitches together with wraps)
Row 26: Purl all stitches
Repeat rows 3-26 five times.

Shape Slice
Work rows 3-14. BO.

Side of Wheel

With MC, CO 15 st on US #6 straight needles

Work in stockinette stitch for 20 inches.

Legs (make two)
Using provisional cast on, and scrap yarn, CO 21 sts on DPN
NOTE: I find it easier to leave CO sts on one needle, work one row, and then join on DPNs. The provisional CO is so that later you can close the hole like you would the top of a hat.
Work 15 rnds in ST st.
Rnd 16:K1, m1, K7, m1, K7, m1, K6.
Work 4 rnds in ST st.
Rnd 21: K1, m1, K8, m1, K8, m1, K7.
Work 12 rnds in ST st.
Break yarn, place sts on scrap yarn.

Arms (make two)

Using provisional cast on, and scrap yarn, CO 21 sts on DPN
Work 15 rnds in ST st.
Rnd 16:K1, m1, K7, m1, K7, m1, K6.
Work 9 rnds in ST st.
Break yarn, place sts on scrap yarn.

Closing bottom of arms and legs
Using darning needle, pull tail through CO sts, remove provisional CO, pull tight, and sew in.

Leg Join
Place both legs on 2 needles as follows: place the first 14 st of leg 1, and the first 13 st of leg 2, on needle A. and the last 14 st of leg 2, and the last 13 st of leg 1 on needle B. 27 st on each needle.
Rnd 1: K14, CO 6, K27, CO 6, K13.


Body
Working sts on to 3 or 4 needles (to make the work less awkward), woke in ST st for 3 inches

Arm Join
Evenly divide stitches for first arm and place them on needles (as follows, place last 12 on first needle of body and last 12 on working needle) This is going to be the beginning of your round. Place safety pin or something here to indicate this.

Join Rnd 1: pm (to indicate beginning of rnd), Knit first two stitches of arm together, k 10, pm, k2tog, k27, place last 12 sts on back needle, and first 12 sts on working needle, pm, k2tog, k10, k2tog, pm, k to next arm join, pm, k2tog, knit to end of rnd.

Shoulder Decrease
Knit to 2 stitches before marker, ssk, knit to next marker, k2tog, knit to 3rd marker, ssk, knit to last marker, k2tog
Repeat 8 times.

Rnd 1: ssk, ssk, k1, ssk, k29, k2tog, k1, k2tog, ssk, ssk, k1, ssk, k28, k2tog, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k2tog.
Rnd 2: ssk, k1, ssk, k27, k2tog, k1, k2tog, ssk, k1, ssk, k26, k2tog, k1, k2tog.
Rnd 3:ssk, ssk, k6, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k2tog, ssk, ssk, k6, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k1.
Rnd 4: k1, ssk, k20, k2tog, k2, ssk, k21, ssk, k1.
Rnd 5: k1, ssk, *k3, k2tog* (repeat from * to * till end of round)
Rnd 6: k1, ssk, *k3, k2tog* (repeat from * to * till end of round. You should have 31 st)
Work one round even.
BO.

Bacon

With red yarn, CO 36 st, onto US #4
Knit 6 rows in garder st.
Change to white yarn and work 4 rows in garder st
Knit 2 rows with red
Knit 2 rows with white.
BO



Olives
Sc = single crochet
Ch = chain

With green yarn, Ch 7
Slip stitch into first chain to form a circle.
Sc 7 (round one)
Sc 7 (round two)
Sc 7 (round three)
Sc 7 (round four)
Sc 2, skip one ch, sc 2, skip one ch, sc 1, tack down with slip stitch.

Olive pit
With red yarn, ch 6.
Work in sc for 5 rows.
Fold in half, picking up bottom edge of fabic and top, slip stitch to sew together.

Stuff red pit into green olive.

FINISHING
Weave in ends. Stuff body with fiber fill. Cut foam to shape of wheel. Sew top, bottom, and side of wheel around foam. Attach wheel to body. Sew on face.

If you have any problems just comment and let me know!

3 comments:

JEANNETTE said...

He's cute! That bacon mouth really cracks me up. :-)

Alyoops said...

This is so cute! Can I link to him in my blog? :3

Bethany said...

Alyoops, sure!

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